The Food Wanker

“What is that?!” my co-worker asks, pointing to my wine glass. “It’s orange wine” I reply, prepared with my practiced and oft repeated follow up “No, it’s not made from oranges, its white wine made like red wine. Normally white grapes are pressed, the skins removed and the juice fermented. With orange wine the juice is left in contact with the skins for some amount of time, that gives it the colour.”

At this point I notice they’ve wandered off during my riveting explanation.

Such is the life of a wine nerd, but if you’re still reading, then allow me to explain a little further.

Skin contact is really just another term for maceration, and is a very old tradition originating from Georgia (the one next to Turkey, not the one Ray Charles sang about), where wine was fermented spontaneously (no added yeast) in open clay pots, that were buried in the ground up to the neck, call Qveri. These pots produced an amber colour wine, but the colour is only half the story.

The purpose of this contact isn’t just to impart some shocking colour, but to add body, preserving the acidity of white wine whilst adding the tannic nature of red and giving the wine a rougher, fuller texture. Skin contact draws out floral and herbaceous flavours giving more depth, especially with longer maceration.

How far the tannic nature and texture develop depends on how long the wine is macerated on its skins, which means wine makers can use this technique to add depth and body to wine without having to go full Irn-Bru.

This proves a useful tool for wine makers, but also lends itself to mad-geniuses who want to push the term “wine” to its breaking point.

Some of my favourites are below, starting with one from the subtler end, to two at the far out, “is this even wine?” “my guests are looking at me like a mad person” end (you get used to it, trust me).

Cortese Vanedda Bianco – 2 days contact with skins – You could be forgiven thinking this a white Burgundy, but you would be wrong! A blend of Catarratto and Grillo, fermented on skins and then fermented on the lees, this golden coloured wine has a full body, tropical fruit and coconut and a long finish. One for a romantic dinner, this rich luxurious wine will charm your dining partner and you can explain that both the colour and body are influenced by the skin contact, guaranteed to seal the deal. (EDITORS NOTE – Not guaranteed to seal any deal.)

Bodegas Vinessens El Carro De La Mata Moscatel – 28 days contact with skins – Amber colour, dry with lovely salinity. On the palate… ALL OF THE HERBS. Reminds me of dried oregano and fresh sage, with honey and nuts to round it out. This is one to sit and think about, I’ve tried few others like it so one for the more adventurous / curious / awesome and fun of you.

Calcarius Nu Litr Orange – 5 days contact with skins – Super fresh, citrus and herbs, good salinity, with a tannic “gripiness” that dissipates a touch once left to open up, giving way to apricots and stone fruit. Great sunshine wine, great to bamboozle and (hopefully) delight your guests.

TIP – Due to the skin contact the last two wines have higher tannins than you’d expect, give them a try on opening, but for a mellower less tannic experience let them open up for an hour or two. I find the Calcarius is a different wine if you leave it to the next day in the fridge, and given it’s a litre bottle, often enjoy it over two nights.

There aren’t any rules, it’s your wine!